Nevertheless, after two extended stays in Chile, many social expressions feel normal and they slip out of my mouth without much reflection. It’s impossible to use other expressions and terms without feeling like I am borrowing a script for Buenos Aires. For example to say something is ‘cool’ or ‘neat’ I have always used the Chilean qué bacán and qué choro. For the first three weeks in Buenos Aires, Argentines would look at me when I said this, with a faint smile and their brow slightly wrinkled, and then they would either continue in their conversation or politely say good-bye. At some point, Gisela, my ever-charming Spanish tutor, asked me what the $%*! I mean when I say qué bacán and qué choro (respectively, with poetic license in the first translation, ‘what a filthy rich bastard’ or ‘what a thief’ in Argentine slang or lunfardo). Would I please explain myself? Some form of bacán or bacano exists in many Latin American countries for ‘cool,’ but in Argentina the coolness factor has dropped a few notches. In Argentina I should be saying ‘how barbaric’ (qué bárbaro). At first, I couldn’t bring myself to call something ‘barbaric.’ Now that we have been here for nearly 2 months, it is starting to creep its way into my own mixed dialect, but I do feel a bit like a fake when using it. Nevertheless, progress is being made: I no longer pause in confusion when Argentines respond to my ‘thank you’ with no, por favor (no, please) or simply no and I even remember that this is considered a polite form to reciprocate thanks; I can set up a story for a friend by saying che, boludo (this can be translated as ‘hey friend, stupid’, but it’s friendly and means something like ‘hey, listen to this’), although it may incite a few smiles coming from someone who doesn’t have an Argentine accent and intonation; and most of the time, I can even stick to the Argentine vos (you, informal). Even though I’m sure these things will only be valid until I cross the next border, for now I’m content understanding and being understood here.
martes, 11 de diciembre de 2007
Language Frontiers
Nevertheless, after two extended stays in Chile, many social expressions feel normal and they slip out of my mouth without much reflection. It’s impossible to use other expressions and terms without feeling like I am borrowing a script for Buenos Aires. For example to say something is ‘cool’ or ‘neat’ I have always used the Chilean qué bacán and qué choro. For the first three weeks in Buenos Aires, Argentines would look at me when I said this, with a faint smile and their brow slightly wrinkled, and then they would either continue in their conversation or politely say good-bye. At some point, Gisela, my ever-charming Spanish tutor, asked me what the $%*! I mean when I say qué bacán and qué choro (respectively, with poetic license in the first translation, ‘what a filthy rich bastard’ or ‘what a thief’ in Argentine slang or lunfardo). Would I please explain myself? Some form of bacán or bacano exists in many Latin American countries for ‘cool,’ but in Argentina the coolness factor has dropped a few notches. In Argentina I should be saying ‘how barbaric’ (qué bárbaro). At first, I couldn’t bring myself to call something ‘barbaric.’ Now that we have been here for nearly 2 months, it is starting to creep its way into my own mixed dialect, but I do feel a bit like a fake when using it. Nevertheless, progress is being made: I no longer pause in confusion when Argentines respond to my ‘thank you’ with no, por favor (no, please) or simply no and I even remember that this is considered a polite form to reciprocate thanks; I can set up a story for a friend by saying che, boludo (this can be translated as ‘hey friend, stupid’, but it’s friendly and means something like ‘hey, listen to this’), although it may incite a few smiles coming from someone who doesn’t have an Argentine accent and intonation; and most of the time, I can even stick to the Argentine vos (you, informal). Even though I’m sure these things will only be valid until I cross the next border, for now I’m content understanding and being understood here.
lunes, 26 de noviembre de 2007
Como la gringa llegó a aprender la cueca
jueves, 20 de septiembre de 2007
Cachagua
We were on our way to Cachagua, which shares the reputation with neighboring Zapallar of being a popular vacation spot for Chile’s rich. Both towns are approximately an hour and a half north of Viña del Mar. Cachagua boasts a bird reserve that is home to Humboldt penguins, among other species. The reserve is slightly off the mainland on the Isla de Cachagua, and because it is protected, the beach on the mainland is as close as it gets, but you can still see the birds quite well. We got off the bus on the main road and followed a dusty dirt road to a beautiful beach. Unfortunately, we did not have any binoculars, and we were only able to positively identify one Humboldt penguin: it had been swept ashore, dead. The penguin was quite small, measuring approximately a foot and a half in length.
Along the Cachagua shore, a well-kept stone path traces a rocky terrain, framed by immaculate houses with ornate gardens. We walked for 3 hours and enjoyed the 15-20 foot waves and solitude. Small foot bridges ease crossing more difficult terrain. Tsunami evacuation route signs serve as a constant reminder that Chile has suffered several large earthquakes in the past 150 years that have severely damaged Chile’s economy.
We made our way to the main road again and hailed the next passing bus by doing the Chilean bus hail (basically, it consists of pointing your pointer finger towards the middle of the road and motioning up and down a few times) . This bus took us to Zapallar, which also has an incredible cove beach. There we enjoyed a late seafood lunch at a restaurant 20 meters from the sea beach before making our way back to Viña del Mar.
martes, 11 de septiembre de 2007
Loca(l)motion
Every weekend we try to explore a new part of the region. Our trips often entail a combination of the local metro, which takes us either to
lunes, 27 de agosto de 2007
The Beginning
Before we left the States, Tim and I didn’t really know what we were getting into or what to expect from our volunteer experience. The morning of our flight, we were still getting information from the English Opens Doors coordinator about what we were supposed to do once we arrived in
Picture Above: Tim, Eva (our delightful Swedish accomplice, and I) at La Gatita in Concon
Our Family
When we first heard that our host family was made up of four children, the youngest being 4 months old, we weren’t sure what to expect. However, they are most definitely the highlight of our sojourn. We have our own room with a door to the patio, and share an occasional outing and all the meals with the family. They have truly made us feel welcome. Most Chileans are very proud of their national dishes. The mom, Lizzy, has been trying to make sure we try all sorts traditional Chilean food, even those foods that aren’t in season: humitas (ground up corn seasoned with either salt or sugar and contained within a corn husk), empanadas (a bread dough similar to a calzone that has typically been stuffed and cooked with a cheese or a meat filling), mote con huesillos (a juice made of a dried fruit similar to an apricot served with bulgur), bean soup with noodles, etc. Most of the food is good, but I miss spices and strong flavors. The traditional clay ovens some rural bakeries use to cook empanadas and bread are fascinating and it leaves the bread tasting absolutely scrumptious.
The Schools
I am teaching the equivalent of a high school/vocational school, and Tim in an elementary school/middle school. There are three types of schools in
Suburban Distractions
So here we are in the Fifth Region of Chile on the threshold between city and country, and as is common in such suburban environments, there is not a lot for youth to do. As early as